Carvers Gap to 19E: Hiking the AT
Carvers Gap to 19 East is considered by several Appalachian Trail (AT) books to be the most scenic section of the trail. It’s a 15 mile stretch that winds through North Carolina and Tennessee.
Nearing elevations around 6000 feet, there are five balds with almost 360-degree views of nearby mountain ranges. If you’re new to backpacking, a bald is a mountain with no trees on top, offering great views.
While the daily mileage is low on this trip if you do it as a three-day hike, it’s worth the slower pace to stop and enjoy the scenery. This is truly one of the most beautiful backpacking routes in the southeast.
Don’t mistake it for an easy weekend though. This is a tough hike with at least three steep climbs but it ends on a fast downhill to 19 East.
You can do it as a day hike, but you’ll be rushing and won’t be able to relax and enjoy the scenery. In my opinion, overnight is perfect, but we usually do it as a weekend trip.
One thing you’ll find on this hike is that you can’t put your camera down. Regardless of the weather, the scenery is breathtaking.
Pro tip: Don’t forget to turn around every now and then. The views are great forward and backwards.
Get ready for breathtaking views of nearby Grandfather Mountain and the Black Mountains. On a recent trip, Table Rock from Linville Gorge could be seen.
Navigation and Water Sources
The best navigation tool for the Appalachian Trail is the FarOut app. The app is free, but you will pay $9.99 for each section of the map, or $34.99 for the entire AT.
Carver’s Gap is included in the section covering Standing Bear to Damascus.
The app applies crowdsourcing for conditions along the way. It’s a great option for finding out if water sources are flowing or dry. It also has a few gems on tent spots you may not have known about.
I recommend starting with enough water to hike the 6 miles to Overmountain Shelter Meadow. There is water at the Stan Murray shelter, but it’s down a small hill and not always reliable.
There is usually flowing water at Overmountain Shelter Meadow. You’ll see the water on our way in and it also has blue blazes to lead the way. Most people stop about 50 feet down the water trail at the small creek. If you keep going to the end of the trail, you’ll find a pipe that has faster flowing water.
After Overmountain, there is sometimes a small stream just before you exit the last wooded section of Little Hump. This is a very small stream and unreliable.
The last solid water source is at Doll Flats. It’s a bit of a hike down a blue-blazed trail, but is usually flowing well. As you reach the stream which is flowing down a hill, the trail forks. Head to the right so you’re going downhill. The second pipe at the bottom is usually the better option.
Exiting Doll Flats, it’s only 3 miles to 19 East.
Different Seasons on the Trail
I’ve hiked Carvers Gap to 19E at least ten times and in different seasons with variable weather. It’s always beautiful, although it’s a different type of beauty with overcast skies compared to bright sunshine.
In the fall and winter, the terrain is dry and brown, but spring and summer bring out the lush greens, overgrown with tall grasses and blooming flowers.
The weather can vary from dark clouds to puffy white clouds, and then nothing but blue skies.
Below you’ll see two photos hiking up Yellow Gap and taking a look back at Overmountain shelter meadow. One was taken in spring and the other in winter. The shelter was taken down in the fall of 2023 which is why the spring picture doesn’t have the barn.
If you’re lucky, you may get a cool breeze to help you up Hump Mountain. Unlucky hikers will sweat up a storm on blazing hot days with no break from the sun.
Regardless, I’m hard-pressed to find another hike that so many people continually come back to enjoy.
Camping at Overmountain Meadow
One of the key attractions when hiking Carvers Gap to 19E used to be Overmountain Shelter. The 2 story red barn was condemned years ago and taken down in the fall of 2023. Currently there’s nothing but the meadow area left which is why I’m calling it Overmountain Meadow.
It’s sad to see the shelter no longer in the field. I have my best photo of the barn below as a memory.
This is what the area looks like now.
You never know what you’ll find at Overmountain Meadow.
On my adventures out there I’ve found myself camping with thru-hikers, Boy Scout troops, had the area to myself, encountered one or two other backpackers, met a guitar-playing hiking balladeer (really – you cannot make this stuff up), and even ran into an old friend from Uwharrie.
While it’s a fun place to be, the real reason everyone stops here is for the spectacular sunrise and sunset over the valley below.
Parking and Getting to the Trailhead at Carver’s Gap
Since it’s a one-way hike, it’s easier to park near 19 East and shuttle to the start at Carvers Gap.
You are much better off taking a shuttle than trying to park at Carver’s Gap. There have been reports of break-ins for vehicles left overnight at the Carvers Gap lot and parking can be tight.
The area attracts a lot of day hikers with the trail to 19 E on the left of the parking area, and the trail to Roan High Knob on the right.
I’ve tried several shuttles in the area and all were great. Within walking distance to the 19 E trail head is The Station at 19E and Mountain Harbour. Both places will take great care of you. It’s about 20 minutes to Carver’s Gap.
Hiking the Trail
There are campsites along the way, but the views from Overmountain Meadow are the best. From the parking lot to Overmountain Meadow is around 6 miles.
Even though the parking lot is at 3800 feet, you start the hike with a climb to Round Bald. The second you hit the trail, you’re going uphill. It only starts to get easier at the 4 mile mark.
Once you’re at the top of Round Bald though, the view distracts from the pain as you get your camera out.
Next on the list is Jane’s Bald at 5807 feet.
The few times I’ve encountered rain or threatening weather, it’s been at Jane’s Bald There’s something about the way the mountains lie that the storms come through this particular area.
I have incredible pictures of an angry sky over gray-blue mountains from this vista. I also have great pictures of the Black Mountains in the distance.
If you’re traveling with a group that hikes at different speeds, Stan Murray shelter is a good place to regroup. It’s the first sign of level land, and easy to spot since the trail goes right in front of it.
Setting up Camp
If you’re planning a three day hike, I recommend staying at Overmountain Meadow on the first night. You’ll need to veer off the trail when you see the intersection with Overmountain Victory Historic Trail. The meadow is down a steep hill which you’ll have to climb up the next morning.
For an overnight trip, it may be worth pushing on and staying at the campgrounds in the wooded area of Little Hump Mountain since it splits the hike more evenly across the 2 days. You won’t have views, but it will be a shorter hike on day 2.
Regardless of where you camp, take a moment to check out the stand sharing information about the Overmountain Victory Trail. It’s an interesting story and the trail is a Designated National Scenic Trail, and one of 12 National Park Sites in North Carolina.
Tents in the meadow have a spectacular view of the sunset at night and sunrise in the morning.
Overmountain Meadow to Hump Mountain
If you stayed at Overmountain Meadow, get ready for a wet tent. This area seems to have a high dew point and no protection so tents get soaked.
Heading out, you’ll have to climb your way back up the AT, then continue with another climb up through Yellow Gap. It’s a good 1.5 miles of climbing before evening out at Little Hump.
Halfway up the hill, looking back, you can see Overmountain Meadow from the trail. It looks so small and peaceful from afar.
Little Hump
Little Hump is interesting as you climb through open spaces, then head into wooded areas, only to exit in another open space.
Every time I hike this trail, I get déjà vu in this area. You walk through a meadow and then enter a wooded area. Once you exit the woods, you’re back to another meadow with another wooded area on the other side.
Be sure to look back every now and then and see where you came from. The views behind you are as good as the ones in front.
As you wind around Little Hump, you can see Hump Mountain, teasing you with what’s to come. When you get there, just put one foot in front of the other and keep looking down.
Hump Mountain
Hump Mountain is no joke. It doesn’t seem too bad of a climb when you look at it, but it’s the unrelenting sun. There is no cover and, during the summer, the heat can wear you down.
Be prepared with plenty of water and sunscreen. A hat isn’t a bad idea either. Take your time and rest when you need to because the view is worth it.
Reaching the top of Hump Mountain, you’re rewarded with spectacular views of Grandfather Mountain, and the surrounding areas of Pisgah National Forest to the right.
On the left is a small town which I think is Roan Mountain. In front is a wooded area that leads to Doll Flats, your stop for the night.
I’ve heard that some people have managed to camp on top of Hump Mountain. It’s completely exposed so the weather has to be darn near perfect.
I haven’t been able to pull this off thanks to rain, high winds, and threats of thunderstorms, but maybe one day I’ll get to experience it.
The top of Hump Mountain is a great place to stop for lunch or a snack. At this point, you’ve made it, there are no more climbs.
Doll Flast
After Hump Mountain, it’s downhill to Doll Flats, but the trail is rocky in this section and can slow you down, especially if it’s wet.
On one occasion, trail runners passed us walking fast, but not running. Trail runners are pretty sure-footed so for them to slow down, you know it’s tough terrain.
You could keep going and push the final 3 miles to 19 East, but it’s a great camping area and nice views. If you’re out for a relaxing weekend, this is a great place to stop.
Doll Flats is another beautiful meadow overlooking a valley. If the grass is low enough, you can pitch your tent in the meadow. Sometimes it’s so tall the view of the valley below is blocked.
Settling in at Doll Flats
There is a wooded camping area at Doll Flats with plenty of space for a large group. I’ve been there with 14 tents and there was room for more.
One of my favorite things about Doll Flats is the sign at the edge of the woods saying “Leaving NC” making you wonder, “When did we enter North Carolina?”
Since the trail weaves in and out of North Carolina and Tennessee, it’s hard to tell where we’ve been, but at least you know what state you’re in now.
A solid source of water is nearby and there are good trees for bear hangs.
Savor your last night around the fire. It’s an easy hike out in the morning so you won’t need to rush.
Heading Down to 19 East
The trail to 19 E is down and fast. You’ll be through it in no time. It’s not particularly scenic so most backpackers just get it done.
When you reach the road, it’s a little weird to hear the cars after being so entrenched in the mountains for the past 2.5 days.
Some of the shuttle drivers will come to get you for free at the trailhead if they’re available. Check before you head out.
A Little History About the Area
Two Sections of Roan Mountain
*Carvers Gap divides Roan Mountain into two sections. This hike covers a portion of the eastern section called Grassy Ridge.
The area has the distinction of being the longest stretch of grassy bald in the Appalachian Mountains at approximately seven miles and includes three peaks: Round Bald, Jane Bald, and Grassy Ridge Bald.
While we don’t usually venture up to Grassy Ridge Bald due to time constraints, if you have time, it’s worth it.
Grassy Ridge Bald tops out at 6,189 feet making it one of the highest grassy balds in the Appalachian Mountains. You can see Grandfather Mountain to the east and the Black Mountains to the south.
Overmountain Men History
I briefly mentioned the Overmountain Victory Historic Trail and there’s a story behind it.
During the American Revolution, British General Charles Cornwallis dispatched a band of Loyalists under the command of Major Patrick Ferguson to raid Western Carolina.
A group of frontiersmen from the mountains, now known as the Overmountain Men, assembled to counter this threat.
The trail commemorates their march towards South Carolina where they defeated Ferguson’s forces at the Battle of Kings Mountain.
Adding further interest to the story, it was difficult to procure gunpowder in the United States during this time. Mary Patton and her husband supplied the men with five hundred pounds of black powder from their Gap Creek powder mill.
Ginseng, Iron Ore and Logging
The history of the area takes another odd turn when the three Perkins brothers were searching for ginseng in the area and noted iron ore deposits.
This led to the creation of the Cranberry Mine which extracted ore for centuries until forced to close by the Great Depression. Loggers took over in the 19th century. You can see what is leftover from the steam engine built in the gap between Round and Jane Bald to move lumber.
The area is now known for its attachment to the Appalachian Trail and many thru-hikers come through in late May through June.
Tips for Hiking Carvers Gap to 19E
When hiking Carvers Gap to 19E, locals and regulars alike all recommend you start at Carvers Gap. There are at least two local hostels that allow you to park overnight and will shuttle you to the trailhead.
Carvers Gap is a popular area for day hikers and the trailhead can become crowded. Many day hikers visit Jane Bald or Grassy Ridge for the day. You’ll leave most of this behind as you exit Jane Bald and continue to Stan Murray shelter.
Overmountain Meadow is a popular overnight location for younger locals looking to get away for an evening, boy scout troops, and youth groups so it can get crowded.
You may need to be flexible on how you pitch your tent and accept you won’t get a perfect spot.
The weather turns on a dime. This section of trail is close to Grandfather mountain which is known for making its own weather. Forget the forecast, you need to be prepared for anything.
I’ve had beautiful, picture-perfect days and I’ve also been pelted with over 40 mph gusts of wind all night. It’s part of what makes this area special.
*Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roan_Mountain_(Roan_Highlands)
